
Shafts for golf clubs are primarily made of either steel or graphite. The steel shafts are made from a carbon steel alloy and protective chrome plating is applied to prevent it from rusting. A graphite shaft can also be called a composite shaft because it made from multiple layers of carbon fiber and epoxy resin holding the layers together. There are even some shafts made of both steel and graphite. However, you are probably wondering which is best for you?
Steel shafts have been used for golf clubs since the 1920’s, although earlier versions can be dated back to the turn of the 20th century. Graphite shafts are a relatively new material used in golf, dating back to the late 1960’s, but didn’t gain widespread acceptance until the mid 1980’s. Both materials are used for some of the following reasons.
Steel shafts are less expensive to manufacturer and easily able to make consistent from shaft-to-shaft. Steel shafts are made from a single material, so creating a new model is limited to geometry changes to the shaft such as the outside diameters along its’ entire length, wall thickness, distance between each step (unless it is a stepless shaft) and usage of additional metals (such as chromium, vanadium and nickel) in the alloys. Premium steel shafts cost about the same as low end graphite shafts.
Graphite shafts were originally designed to make a lightweight alternative to steel shafts. However, there are graphite shafts that actually weigh more than some steel models, but this is very rare. Steel shafts range from approximately 90g to 130g, while graphite shafts can be a low as 39g. The most popular weight range of graphite shafts for woods is 60-70 grams and for iron shafts the weight is closer to 70 – 80 grams. One of the biggest advantages to graphite shafts is their lighter weight.
Since the graphite shafts are generally lighter than steel shafts, there is a potential for greater distance because they may be able to be swung slightly faster. Most graphite shafted clubs are assembled longer in length than standard steel-shafted clubs. Golfers that tend to be less consistent may find the steel shafts to give them greater control. But for those golfers, such as ladies and seniors, who need additional length to enjoy the game better, graphite shafts are a welcome alternative.
Another advantage of graphite shafts over steel is from a design standpoint. As earlier stated, graphite shafts are manufactured from multiple layers of carbon fiber. Each layer can be a different modulus (strength) material and can be applied at different angles to contribute independently to the stiffness or reduction in twisting along the length of the shaft. This allows graphite shaft manufactures almost limitless possibilities in new designs.
Because of the various materials able to be used in the manufacturer of the golf shaft, there is a much greater range in pricing as well. An inexpensive graphite shaft may cost $10.00, while the most expensive shaft can cost as much as $1000.00! Although most graphite shafts normally found in $10 – $90 range. Expect a club with a graphite shaft to cost more than with a steel shaft.
This is one reason why you so the majority of golfers have both steel and graphite shafted clubs in their bag. Greater than 90% of all drivers have graphite shafts in them. This is because the driver is designed for maximum distance and is much larger and easier-to-hit than they were just a few years ago. For fairway woods, more than 80% are equipped with graphite shafts as players tend to match the driver with the same type of shaft. Golfers, who tend to hit the ball a long way and/or need more control, may find steel to their liking. There are a number of lightweight steel shafts available as an alternative to graphite.
Irons and wedges are usually just the opposite in the shaft material choice. Approximately 75% of irons sold today are sold with steel shafts. The primary reason for choosing steel may be an economic factor as the irons and wedges make up a great percentage of the clubs in the bag. The other reason why golfers choose steel in their irons and wedges is for control rather than increasing distance, especially among stronger individuals. However, there are a number of quality graphite iron shafts that come in all different weights and stiffness to match nearly every golfer.
The choice between steel or graphite shafts for you will be based on if you are looking at greater distance or not. Greater distance will come at a greater cost, not only economically, but for those who already don’t hit their ball very straight, hitting the ball further may even compound the problem. Make sure to make the choice wisely based on your personal goals and current tendencies.
by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director
August 14, 2007 at 12:40 am
I am preparing to buy a set of Dynacraft Iron heads, will they come with a standard shaft? If i purchase shafts with them do they come assembled? The same questions for the Dynacraft Hybrids and Mantara Driver and Fairway woods. Thank you.
August 14, 2007 at 12:20 pm
Jerry:
We actually sell both assembled clubs and components to make yourself. If you want assembled clubs make sure you click on the tab near the top of the Hireko home page that says “Custom Made Clubs”. There are stocks shafts for the clubs. For drivers and fairways, the standard shaft is the Aldila VL / VX and for the irons and hybrids it is the Apollo Standard Stepped steel. We have a lot of upgrade options available as well in both graphite and steel.
Sincerely,
Jeff Summitt
Hireko Golf
July 14, 2008 at 4:55 pm
I just discover this site. Great Info! I rebuild older forged irons from time to time using today’s shafts. Older irons often have longer hosels. The tip trimming guides for older shafts were based on the measurement of heel to first step to establish the desired flex. Today’s trimming instructions appear to assume a standard hosel length. Do you compensate the trim amounts for longer iron hosels?
July 14, 2008 at 7:01 pm
Gary:
You definitely can on parallel tip irons and wedges, especially if you are using wedges that are different from the set of irons. Most irons have a bottom of bore to ground line measurement of 1″. I use that as a standard and adjust when it is greater in the case of older, longer hosel irons and wedges, or less as in the case with a Callaway bore-thru iron.
Jeff Summitt
Hireko Golf
October 16, 2008 at 5:38 pm
I have graphite in my irons and I am trying to put a graphite shaft in a Mizuno MP T 58 (no option to buy this loft with a graphite shaft). I understand that I need a .355 tip. Can I use the Grafalloy Prolaunch Blue Taper iron with tip diameter listed as .355t?
October 16, 2008 at 6:26 pm
Brian:
Technically the .355″ shaft will fit the .355″ tapered hosel, but you may need to countersink the top of the hosel to prevent the shaft from breaking.
Jeff Summitt
Hireko Golf
January 26, 2009 at 12:43 am
I play rifle 5.0 in my irons and am considering a 3 or 4 wood to be shafted in a similar rifle( i like the launch of the 5.0). Any suggestions in this process? Should I consider a 4.5 for the fairway? Any comments are welcome. I recall my swing speed is around 90-93. Thank you
January 26, 2009 at 3:06 pm
Mike:
The purpose of the Rifle shafts was the frequency matching so the whole set felt the same in terms of flex. If you are comfortable with the 5.0 in your irons, I would match that in your fairway woods. However, if you do choose to go to the 4.5, this is only 1/2 flex softer so it is not a night and day difference. You might experience a slightly lighter shaft and potentially a little higher ball flight than if you used the 5.0.
Jeff Summitt
Hireko Golf
February 9, 2009 at 8:34 pm
I’m an 8 handicap, and am currently playing ping rapture with Reg AWT steel shafts, I want to go back to a forged club for better feel, and I’ve decided on Titleist AP2 here is the issue I have, I have always played True Temper steel shafts I just recently switched from S300 to the reg (I’m 64) The clubs come with Project X, I’m being told to get the 5.0 flex which from what I hear are a little stiffer then the shafts I have, My gut feeling is to stay with the Dynamic Gold reg shafts, I’m just not sure how the project X shafts will feel, I only hit one in the golf shop,
My question, is there a significant difference between Project X and the Dynamic Gold.
Cost is not a factor, I guess I’m old school and am hesitant to change, the ping rapture switch was a mistake, they are great clubs but definitely for the high handicapper.
Your thoughts on the shafts please
February 10, 2009 at 1:13 pm
Michael:
Both are proven shafts for the stronger or more aggressive golfers with the Project X producing perhaps a slightly higher launch angle. The flex differences should not be very noticeable, if at all. But in the 5.0 FCM level, the Project X will be a lighter shaft.
Jeff Summitt
Hireko Golf
May 6, 2009 at 9:42 pm
Hi Jeff,
I am 65 and for the past several years shafts are R300. My swing speed is 92. 18 hcp
1. Sr steel flex shaft give me higher troj or distance?
2. Factory R300 steel shaft on Mizuno 200 vs factory Reg graphite shaft on Mizuno 200 have the same performance?
Feel will be different which I know. I hit a straight ball. My line needs work.
Thank you
August 29, 2009 at 1:18 pm
I am 64 yrs. old and a begginner with not a strong swing. Planning to buy a new set of clubs. My left wrist and mid left shoulder got injured while practicing. Should I go to Carbon or steel?
Im pretty tall (6 ft.) and would like to know what size shaft to select. Many thanks
Rogelio Cover
August 31, 2009 at 1:17 pm
Rogelio:
Based on the fact you you do not have a strong swing and your wrist and shoulder are injured (were you using steel shafts???), I would select a graphite shaft so it is easier to swing the club. At 6 feet, that is not overly, plus graphite shafted irons tend to be a little longer anyway, I might suggest standard length unless you are a large man (width-wise) that requires the extra length to get down to the ball. But making the clubs over length will just make the clubs feel heavier.
Jeff Summitt
Hireko Golf
September 4, 2009 at 2:43 pm
Does the frequency of a graphite shaft versus a steel shaft differ when comparing stiffness spec’s, i.e. should an A flex steel 5 iron have the same frequency as an A flex graphite 5 iron of the same length? Is there a standard for flex ratings?
October 6, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Kent:
There are no standards for frequency within the industry and thank goodness there is not so there is some diversity. But in general, graphite shafts will generally have a lower frequency in the same given flex as steel. This is more prevalent in irons or shorter clubs than there is let’s say a driver shaft.
Jeff Summitt
Hireko Golf