Today’s tip takes a look at bore types and how to trim shafts accordingly.
As you look at a shaft’s trimming instructions and see a trim note that
references bore type, trimming must be adjusted accordingly to maintain
the flex profile of that particular shaft. Remember, if there is no reference
to a trim note related to bore type, do not add to the shaft trimming.
Here’s a look at how to understand shaft trimming and how it is related
to bore type:
Initially we must define what is meant by though bore, blind bore, M1
and M2 related to metal wood tip trimming. A through bore (also spelled
thru-bore) shaft is one that penetrates through the bottom of the club.
You can see the where the shaft exits of the head; or at least ends at
the sole of the club. A blind bore is one in which the shaft bottoms out
1/2″ from the groundline. An M2 bottoms out at 1″; an M1 bottoms
out 1 1/2″ from the groundline.
Our catalog defines all of our models as to bore type. But what if you
are working with a non-Hireko head? How is bore type determined? It’s
really very simple. Take a shaft and measure its length. Let’s say it
measures 45″ for example. Put the shaft in the hosel of the club
into which it will be installed. Measure the length of the club with this
shaft test fitted into it. If it is 45 1/2″, it is a blind bore.
A measurement of 46″ indicates an M2; a measure of 46 1/2″ shows
that the head is an M1. That’s all there is to it. Then simply follow
the trimming instructions found in the catalog for proper shaft trimming.
But what if the measure is not exactly as stated above? Let’s say you
get 46 1/4″. Simply adjust the trimming accordingly. This measure
is between an M1 and M2. You can look at the M1 trimming and then trim
1/4″ less than the instructions specify or you can look at the club
as an M2 and trim 1/4″ more. It’s that easy!
When shafting irons, you can somewhat follow the same rule. The standard
bottom of bore to groundline in irons is 1″. Adjustments can be made
if this measure is different than the 1″ standard. If the measure
is less than 1″, you will trim less off the shaft; equal to how much
less than 1″ the measure is. If the measure is more than 1″,
you will trim that much more from the shaft than the trimming instructions
apply.
Hopefully this tip will help to clarify tip trimming measurements. Remember,
any time that you have questions, feel free to call us at 800-367-8912
or 800-321-4833 or check us out on the Forums at www.hirekogolf.com; we’ll
be happy to be of help!
by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director
jsummitt@hirekogolf.com |
April 27, 2008 at 2:20 am
I want to reshaft my Titleist 905R with a shaft with a low kick point and high launch. I am leaning towards the UST V2 High launch or the Grafalloy Prolaunch. Which shaft do you suggest to obtain a true regular flex after being installed in the Titleist 905R head? What is the 905 head considered, Bore thru or Blind bore.
Thanks for your help
Robin Rice
April 28, 2008 at 3:03 pm
Robin:
The Titleist 905R is a bore thru design. The Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue 65 or 75 is designed for a bore thru application, while the 45 and 55 are not. If using the V2 High Launch inserted all the way into the head, it would end up making it stiffer. The easy way to rectify that problem is cut the shaft off at the top of the hosel and drill 1.5″ – 2″ deep (max) and install like a normal metal wood. The old shaft will act as the plug and you will end up with the intended flex.
September 14, 2009 at 7:51 pm
I have also purchased this same exact shaft for the same exact driver (V2 High Launch 75g for a 905r). I purchased regular flex with the intent of getting it tip trimmed just about an inch or less to increase the flex since I am normally between the regular and stiff recommended swing speed for most shafts (88-93).
My questions are;
1) How much stiffer will it play if you insert this V2 shaft all the way into the head?
2) How much shorter will it end up being?
3) What would you suggest for trimming?
The shaft I purchased is a new and uncut 46″ shaft (if that makes any difference…)
Thanks
October 21, 2008 at 1:59 am
Hi… I have iron heads that are M1… however i reshafted them with shafts cut for an M2. They are now installed with the depth going inside the hosel at only 1″ in depth.
Is this bad? I’ve been hitting them and they seem fine. I am just worried about the structural integrity of the hosel and the bond itself
October 21, 2008 at 2:38 pm
Jon:
The M1 and M2 refer more to wood heads, although the same thing can be applied irons. The M1 or M2 has nothing to do with insertion depth or how far the shaft goes into the head. The M1 in our terminology means that the shaft will seat 1.5″ above the ground line; while the M2 seat 1″ above the ground line. A shafting depth of 1″ (if that is all the further the hosel depth is, is perfect fine and should not have any problems with structural integrity.
Jeff Summitt
Hireko Golf
November 25, 2008 at 12:37 am
Hi Jeff,
I have iron heads which allow for tapered shafts. However, my fitter gave me parallel shafts, and had to bore/drill through the iron head ( not sure how deep ), to insert the parallel shaft in.
Does this affect the structural integrity? or consistency / performance? The iron heads are the Taylormade Tour Preferred and the shafts are Black Gold True Temper.
thanks Jeff!
Jessy
November 25, 2008 at 5:11 pm
Jessy:
By boring the hosel from a tapered .355″ hosel to a .370″ parallel bore, you are taking very little material. This will in no way affect the integrity of the club.
Jeff Summitt
February 21, 2009 at 8:51 pm
Jeff,
Does the hosel depth have no effect on the shaft stiffness? I thought it did because in turn I would end up with more butt section of the shaft in the over all club length? On most manufacturers trimming charts, there is no mention of what hosel depth or BBGM the trimming insructions are for. With out knowing how far they assume the bottom of the shaft to be from the ground, how can we have any clue what to base their trimming instructions off of? I would like to put a UST V2 hybrid shaft in my 585h titleist hybrid, which I am hearing is a normal hosel, not a bore through? Also this head is a .355 taper which makes buying a graphite shaft impossible! Do I sand down a .370? One more question: How much effect does hard stepping have on a set of Project X shafts? If I hard step a 6.0, will it play 6.2, 6.3, etc? Also, in what other ways does the hard stepping affect the shaft, club, and swing weight?
February 23, 2009 at 1:50 pm
Scott:
Shaft insertion depth as well as bottom of bore to ground line measurement (BBGM) has an influence on shaft stiffness. For the majority of irons shafts, the BBGM is approximately 1″.
Never sand down a .370″ graphite shaft to fit a .355″ tapered hosel as there is a good possibly you could make the shaft weaker and potentially cause the shaft to break. It is always best to enlarge the hosel by boring it out.
If you hard-step the Project X shafts (i.e. using a 4-iron shaft into a 3-iron head), then anticipate the FCM level to increase by 0.25 – a 6.0 turning into a 6.25. The balance point is not enough different to cause any change in swingweight. Other than making the shaft stiffer, it may produce a little lower launch angle.
June 14, 2009 at 1:37 pm
I have a Bang-O-Matic 460 which has a deep hosel. If I play 260 CPM shafts in standard what CPM shaft would you recommend in deep hosel heads? Thanks, Mike
June 15, 2009 at 1:05 pm
Mike:
I am not sure if there is an answer to that question unless you are using the exact same shaft and length. If you change either one of those things, then depending on the shaft, the frequency may need to be higher or lower to recreate that feel. If the shaft and length are the same, then as long as you can get it close to 260 plus / minus 5 (or fewer) cpm, then it should play similarly.
Jeff Summitt
July 21, 2009 at 4:30 pm
I am wanting to install a set of .370 project x into a 5 year old set of Mizuno MP-60. Just a bore to the new diameter is all that is needed? Right?
Thanks-
July 28, 2009 at 3:26 pm
Hi-
I have a Ping G10 that i am reshafting with a Mitsubishi Fabuka, what type of bore is the G10?
July 28, 2009 at 6:41 pm
Marc:
Correct, all you would need to do is enlarge the bore to .370″ with either a 9.4mm or 3/8″ drill bit.
July 28, 2009 at 6:44 pm
Corey:
The bottom of bore to ground line measurement of the Ping G10 driver is most likely 1.5″ (or our M1 bore designation). However I doubt you have to factor that into the tip trimming with the Fubuki shaft. The Ping G10 uses a .350″ shaft, but you will need a special ferrule (our code FR200) which will also reduce the hosel size down to .335″.
Jeff Summitt
August 4, 2009 at 8:56 pm
Hi-
I am installing a fubuki shaft into my Ping G10, the lenght of the tip currently is approx. 1 inch or so, i go to the mitsubishi website and it says for driver installation 0″. Do that mean no trimming required?? And then for my titelist fairway wood that i am shafting with a diamana blue board it says 1/2″ tip, does that mean i trim it to be half inch long tip from where the tip starts???
Thanks
Corey
October 6, 2009 at 7:24 pm
Corey:
In both cases you do not add an for the bore type. So for the driver, butt trim to length and only tip trim the shaft 1/2″ for the Titleist fairway.
Jeff Summitt
Hireko Golf